The highest summit on the Antarctic Continent 4895m. Mt Vinson are famous for cold temperatures (-40) and strong winds, we had great conditions on our summit climb.
A long time dream came true with the climb of Mount Vinson. Me and my dear friend Roland, we have been planning to do this trip for a long time. Finally we got it together. By the end of November we flew to Punta Arenas, Chile to met up with ALE, Antarctic Logistic Expedition. This is a private company that provide logistic and built their own camp every summer. The camp is called Union Glacier and it got one of the rare dry glacier where you can land big cargo planes with wheels. Every summer the camp is full of turist and research people who want to ski to the South Pole, watch the Empire Penguins and climb Mt Vinson.
We landed at Union Glacier in bad weather, the Russian captain of the Ilyushin IL-76 made a fantastic effort to land us safely. The coming 7 days we had bad weather, that meant that we couldn't fly to the Vinson base camp to start our climb. In the afternoon on the 7th day the weather cleared and we could fly the 4o minutes to the base camp.
We meet with our 3rd member of our party Mark Postel, we deiced to move straight up to camp 1 at an altitude of 2700m. Next morning the wins was strong at camp 2 so we decided to hang out in camp 1. The following morning the wind has gone down and we climbed the 900m meters of fixed ropes to camp 2, 3800m. Fantastic views and the weather was perfect. Next day we decided to go for the summit, it took us about 8 hours to climb the 1200m to the summit, FANTASTIC. No wind and not so cold, ca -15.
A quick decent and a waiting Twin Otter at base camp took us back to Union Glacier. The next day we where back in Punta Arenas after a empty flight with the Ilyushin IL-76. The rest of the groups that had the same schedule as us where still on the mountain slowly moving their camps up the mountain. We had arrange to have all the camps pre stocked with tents, stoves, fuel and food. This way we could move faster and benefit from a good forecast. A great trip to a amazing continent. THX ALE for the best service.
Great weather, great team and a fantastic climb of the Pigne de Arolla 3800m.
We started by the impressive Dix dam, 280m high and then we walked to our first hut, Cabane Praflurie. A long day walking by the Dix dam took us to the Dix hut. Third day was the big day with a accent of the Pigne de Arolla 3800 m. blue skies and no wind on the summit, great effort "dream team".
This classic week goes under the name "the spagetti tour".
We started in Zermatt and did a traverse around the Monte Rosa chain. On the way we stayed in fantastic Italien huts and we climbed a few 4000 meter peaks. And of course we ate a lot of pasta, a great week.
Working with the Swedish mountain guide training course.
A week of nice climbing on Gastlosen, Pillar Lomasi and a cold accent of the Dent de Geant 4103m. Great team and we now have 5 new aspirant guides in Sweden.
A two day ski tour starting in Andermatt
A very warm skin to the Alber-Heim hut and a busy night. Next morning we started with a headlamp ski in fog and icy slopes. Then the sun came out and we had a great climb to Lochberg with some nice snow climbing to get there. The ski down was great in the start with nice powder and then some sun crust snow.
New valley in Austria, Hohe Tauern, Ost Tirol.
A nice 8 hour drive took me to this fantastic valley where I meet up with Björn and Ulf. Both very experienced ski tourers since many tours in the Alps. The plan was to visit two huts, Rostock Essener hut and Kursinger hut. The main goal was to climb the Gross Venedinger 3660 m. The highest summit in the area, we managed that and had a great week of ski touring.
Japan is the place to ski in January
This year I had two great groups of skiers. We enjoyed really nice weather with sea view, fantastic Onsen's and the best Hokkaido powder.
Already planning for 2017, let me know if you are interested in ski trip of a life time.
After a really dry summer and a fantastic autumn there is a lack of snow in the mountains.
However if you are prepared to skin for a bit there is still some nice turns to be made. "earn your turns" is the rule right now
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Abisko is a small town 400 km North of the Arctic Circle, a great place for early season ice climbing.
Two weeks of ice climbing, one week with the Swedish Army and one week with the Swedish guide training. We had great conditions and thanks Mina and Dick at the Abisko Mountain Lodge for taking so good care of us.
A two year project that took three years to deliver.
A old ski friend decided three years ago that he wanted to climb the "Big M". We started with a week of basic skills first year and last year the Matterhorn never came in conditions so we climbed the Dufourspitze 4630 m instead. This year with the celebration of the 150 year anniversary of Whympers first accent, Matterhorn was in perfect condition. We made it to the summit without using crampons in a good time and where back at the hut by lunchtime. Thanks for a great climb Ulf.
Great week working for the International School of Mountaineering.
We based ourself around Arolla and climbed four peaks.
"Dream teams" goes to Nippon.
Again a fantastic week of great food, Yasuragi and of course famous Hokkaido powder. Thanks again Yasu my favorite guide in Japan.
Penguins, humpback whales, full hurricane at the Drakes passage and great ski touring.
After spending some nice days in Ushuaia, the moste southern city in the world. We embarked on our ship, Sea Adventures. Our crossing south through the Drakes was calm, sunny and warm. It takes 2 days to cross and on the way over we saw 60 humpback whales coming up just next to ship. We used zodiaks for shuttle from the ship to the different landing sites. We skied on 6 different places on Antarctic Penensula.
On the way back through the Drakes we got the full value, avarage wind of 129 km/h and peaked at 188km/h, 9- 15 meters waves, full hurrucane. The captian made a great work and we all felt safe and it will be a memonry for life.
Thanks to Karyn and Doug at Ice Axe Expeditions. If you want to join 2015 let me know, I will go back next year, a great adventure
A great week with "old timers".
Last summer we climbed the Dom and the Strahlhorn in Valais. This summer we decided that we needed some new challanges and we decided on a road trip to the Ecrin massive, France.
We started out from the Refuge Glacier Blanc and from there we climbes the Roche Faurio 3730 m. and after a night in La Grave we climbed the 1800 m to the newly rebuilt Refuge Aigle 3450 m. A great hut with big ambiance. In perfect weather we climbed the Meije Oriental 3891 m with great views of Meije Grand Pic, Le Pave and the north face of the Pic Gaspard.
La Meije and traverse of Dômes de Miage-Bionnassay
A big week working with the swedish guides. Alpine test and a great team of 8 aspirant guides. We started with the last big summit that was climbed in the Alps, La Meije 3983 m in the Ércrins. A long day with fantastic climbing in great conditions. After the summit, great traverse climbing of all the "small" summits before the last rappels down to the Aigle hut. Second part of the week we moved on to snow and made a fantastic traverse over the Dômes de Miage and Aig, de Bionnassay 4052 m. Bionnassay is one of the sharpest ridges in the Alps and it takes a bit of a nerve to climb it, not for people with vertigo.
Thank you Team and good luck on the next coming tests.
Boat life, great skiing, Fab Lab and Norwegian weather.
My Norwegian advetures started in Ålesund and two trips in to the Hjörund Fjord. We stayed on "Gåssten" a old Swedish minesweeper built in the 1970. The captain Tim, owner Sven and crew Pip and Helen took great care of us. As normal in Norway you can have mixed weather, this time we got a lot of Gore Tex test days. But great potential for fantastic skiing and touring. I will be back.
Second stop was in Lyngen and we stayed at the Fab Lab/Solvik. Carl and Oskar did their first visit to Northen Norway and we got full value, great views, good snow, strong winds, rain and a speed boat ride to Arnöa in 40 knots.
A great climb to the summit of Mont Vélan 3727m and a nice ski down.
The skin from the Super St Bernard "old" ski lift is 1800m and the couloir is about 500 m high and 40 - 45 degrees steep. Nothing extreme, just a nice day out in a not so busy part of the Valais.
Dom, Dufourspitze and Nordend, perfect first week of guiding after spending 2 weeks on sea level in Sweden.
The highest summit in Switzerland is Dufourspitze 4637 m in the Monte Rosa massive. The highest peak totaly in Switzerland is Dom 4545 m. Nordend 4609 m is a bonus peak if you have some power left after you have climbed the 1840 vertical meters from the Monte Rosa hut..
We started the week with fresh dump of snow, maybe to much.
The plan was to do day tours from the Branca and Pizzini hut. We walked up to Branca in full blizzard and the when the sun came out we had fantastic conditions with 30 - 40 cm of great powder.
If you have to pick one week of skiing 2013 this was the probably the one.
I can't remember better conditions for a week. Verbier recieved one meter plus of the best snow that you can imagine. We skies 3 days and every day was better than the day before. A week for BIG skis and strong legs.
High expectations as normal when Janne & Co arrives, once more Verbier delivers the goods.
We been skiing Verbier so many times that I can't remember. We have been all over the place but still we managed to get some new routes in. Thanks for some great days skiing.
As normal we had plenty of snow and cold temperatures on this course.
On the agenda was alpine winter climbing, we ended up with half a meter with fresh snow, strong winds and -25 degrees on altitude. After a attempt on the Cosmique Arête we decided to go low and we ended up in Cogne for some great ice climbing.
Now this group of aspirant guides only have one more exam before they become full guides.
A three week trek with a fantastic finish
Back in Nepal again with the Smith & Co. The plan was to do a trek to Namche Bazar, Gokyo over the Cho La pass 5300m and down to Everest Basecamp. We managed this in good style and we arrived in Everest BC when it still was quite calm. Most of the expeditions where down at lower altitude to get some good sleep and to breath thick and moist air. We did a climb up the Khumbu Ice fall and it is still a very scary place.
Our main goal was to climb the Island Peak 6189 meter. We had fantastic weather and we where first on the very small summit pyramid. What a great view and feeling to be standing on a Himalayan peak.
We will be back..................