The highest summit on the Antarctic Continent 4895m. Mt Vinson are famous for cold temperatures (-40) and strong winds, we had great conditions on our summit climb.
A long time dream came true with the climb of Mount Vinson. Me and my dear friend Roland, we have been planning to do this trip for a long time. Finally we got it together. By the end of November we flew to Punta Arenas, Chile to met up with ALE, Antarctic Logistic Expedition. This is a private company that provide logistic and built their own camp every summer. The camp is called Union Glacier and it got one of the rare dry glacier where you can land big cargo planes with wheels. Every summer the camp is full of turist and research people who want to ski to the South Pole, watch the Empire Penguins and climb Mt Vinson.
We landed at Union Glacier in bad weather, the Russian captain of the Ilyushin IL-76 made a fantastic effort to land us safely. The coming 7 days we had bad weather, that meant that we couldn't fly to the Vinson base camp to start our climb. In the afternoon on the 7th day the weather cleared and we could fly the 4o minutes to the base camp.
We meet with our 3rd member of our party Mark Postel, we deiced to move straight up to camp 1 at an altitude of 2700m. Next morning the wins was strong at camp 2 so we decided to hang out in camp 1. The following morning the wind has gone down and we climbed the 900m meters of fixed ropes to camp 2, 3800m. Fantastic views and the weather was perfect. Next day we decided to go for the summit, it took us about 8 hours to climb the 1200m to the summit, FANTASTIC. No wind and not so cold, ca -15.
A quick decent and a waiting Twin Otter at base camp took us back to Union Glacier. The next day we where back in Punta Arenas after a empty flight with the Ilyushin IL-76. The rest of the groups that had the same schedule as us where still on the mountain slowly moving their camps up the mountain. We had arrange to have all the camps pre stocked with tents, stoves, fuel and food. This way we could move faster and benefit from a good forecast. A great trip to a amazing continent. THX ALE for the best service.
Great weather, great team and a fantastic climb of the Pigne de Arolla 3800m.
We started by the impressive Dix dam, 280m high and then we walked to our first hut, Cabane Praflurie. A long day walking by the Dix dam took us to the Dix hut. Third day was the big day with a accent of the Pigne de Arolla 3800 m. blue skies and no wind on the summit, great effort "dream team".
This classic week goes under the name "the spagetti tour".
We started in Zermatt and did a traverse around the Monte Rosa chain. On the way we stayed in fantastic Italien huts and we climbed a few 4000 meter peaks. And of course we ate a lot of pasta, a great week.
A two day ski tour starting in Andermatt
A very warm skin to the Alber-Heim hut and a busy night. Next morning we started with a headlamp ski in fog and icy slopes. Then the sun came out and we had a great climb to Lochberg with some nice snow climbing to get there. The ski down was great in the start with nice powder and then some sun crust snow.
Japan is the place to ski in January
This year I had two great groups of skiers. We enjoyed really nice weather with sea view, fantastic Onsen's and the best Hokkaido powder.
Already planning for 2017, let me know if you are interested in ski trip of a life time.
A two year project that took three years to deliver.
A old ski friend decided three years ago that he wanted to climb the "Big M". We started with a week of basic skills first year and last year the Matterhorn never came in conditions so we climbed the Dufourspitze 4630 m instead. This year with the celebration of the 150 year anniversary of Whympers first accent, Matterhorn was in perfect condition. We made it to the summit without using crampons in a good time and where back at the hut by lunchtime. Thanks for a great climb Ulf.
"Dream teams" goes to Nippon.
Again a fantastic week of great food, Yasuragi and of course famous Hokkaido powder. Thanks again Yasu my favorite guide in Japan.
Penguins, humpback whales, full hurricane at the Drakes passage and great ski touring.
After spending some nice days in Ushuaia, the moste southern city in the world. We embarked on our ship, Sea Adventures. Our crossing south through the Drakes was calm, sunny and warm. It takes 2 days to cross and on the way over we saw 60 humpback whales coming up just next to ship. We used zodiaks for shuttle from the ship to the different landing sites. We skied on 6 different places on Antarctic Penensula.
On the way back through the Drakes we got the full value, avarage wind of 129 km/h and peaked at 188km/h, 9- 15 meters waves, full hurrucane. The captian made a great work and we all felt safe and it will be a memonry for life.
Thanks to Karyn and Doug at Ice Axe Expeditions. If you want to join 2015 let me know, I will go back next year, a great adventure
A great climb to the summit of Mont Vélan 3727m and a nice ski down.
The skin from the Super St Bernard "old" ski lift is 1800m and the couloir is about 500 m high and 40 - 45 degrees steep. Nothing extreme, just a nice day out in a not so busy part of the Valais.
Dom, Dufourspitze and Nordend, perfect first week of guiding after spending 2 weeks on sea level in Sweden.
The highest summit in Switzerland is Dufourspitze 4637 m in the Monte Rosa massive. The highest peak totaly in Switzerland is Dom 4545 m. Nordend 4609 m is a bonus peak if you have some power left after you have climbed the 1840 vertical meters from the Monte Rosa hut..
A three week trek with a fantastic finish
Back in Nepal again with the Smith & Co. The plan was to do a trek to Namche Bazar, Gokyo over the Cho La pass 5300m and down to Everest Basecamp. We managed this in good style and we arrived in Everest BC when it still was quite calm. Most of the expeditions where down at lower altitude to get some good sleep and to breath thick and moist air. We did a climb up the Khumbu Ice fall and it is still a very scary place.
Our main goal was to climb the Island Peak 6189 meter. We had fantastic weather and we where first on the very small summit pyramid. What a great view and feeling to be standing on a Himalayan peak.
We will be back..................